Friday, 10 October 2008

Reader's Report - Southern Dalmatia Part II

Today's photo is of Sučuraj on Hvar island. We've acclaimed it several times as one of the most photogenic villages we've visited. Ian Shaw, who captured this image, has also been kind enough to round off his most recent voyage around Dalmatia with his latest report. See the immediately preceding posting for Part I.
Following our overnight stay at Cavtat (would have liked to have stayed longer), we returned to Okuklje and the same mooring. No more to be said here (see prior posting). Our intended destination was Vrbroska, but steadily worsening weather forced us to change our plans. We decided to take a look at Lovisće, even though the wind had started to blow from the North. As an anchorage only it may be OK, but since that was not what we were looking for, we moved on. Quite frankly, the whole village had a depressing air about it, and offered nothing at first glance which would have encouraged us to stay. The two rusting trawlers moored at the jetty had an air of gloomy permanence.

Our options were narrowing as quickly as the Bora was increasing. A quick look at the chart threw up Sučuraj and the Croatia Cruising Companion confirmed good shelter for the prevailing weather conditions. The Bora kept us here for two nights and we thoroughly enjoyed our stay. We berthed starboard side to on the (nearly) new wooden jetty immediately to the west of the ferry terminal. The harbour master's office is one of the three kiosks immediately adjacent the wooden jetty. Mooring fees 300 kuna for a 15m boat, including electrics (16 amp) and water. The ferry provided us with entertainment and we continue to be impressed by the ferry services offered to the islands we have visited.

The Bora was still blowing the next day, but we decided to take a look to the North and found conditions perfectly managable for a trip to Stari Grad, our favourite port of those we have visited so far. It was interesting to note the change in weather conditions in the Hvarski Kanal, in the space of half a mile or so the wind would vary from force three to six and back. In narrowest part between Brač and Hvar, Brač seemed to offer some protection from the wind, and then the two islands acted to funnel the wind. Whilst this posed no difficulty, it was interesting to observe and take note of. The sky to the west was clear and we sailed into warm, sunny weather and calmer seas before turning to port and starting our run into Stari Grad. Arriving late lunchtime we found plenty of berths available; by late afternoon, however, all the berths had been filled and some yachts were obliged to lay up alongside the trip boats. We ate that evening at Restaurant Antika which had been recommended to us on our last visit in July. Thoroughly enjoyed the meal and atmosphere (Aussies and Scots) and will go back and eat there again.

Next day was our last full day and a sail back to Marina Frapa. Always a surprise when we arrive since we never know which berth we will have. It bothered us at first, not having an allocated berth. But since there is room for all, it doesn't seem to matter so much.

An early start next day for the EasyJet flight to Gatwick, then onwards to Geneva and back to France - a long day.

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